- Words by Andrea Petrini
- Photos by Maren Caruso
Saturday morning is Market Day. Coï is closed at lunch. Breakfast is washed down with freshly ground Blue Bottle Coffee. Daniel Patter- son, with a three-day beard and wet hair from the shower, loads his children Jules and Louise into the car to let them have a run around at the market. Lucy remains at home to give her mistress Alexandra some canine company.
It’s a festive occasion at the market, with colours and flavours in the open air as San Francisco families come and go, with the numerous fruit and vegetable producers who are representatives of an organic undercurrent that has become a lifestyle. Louise munches on organic carrots as if they were pastries, and strawber- ries transform Jules’ t-shirt into a red body painting. There is a queue for artisan hamburgers and hotdogs. Chad Robertson, the baker from the Tartine Bakery who was recognised with the James Beard Award in 2008 for his dough, is also there to stock up on salad, leeks and broccoli for Bar Tartine, his bistro. Christian Puglisi, who has just arrived from Relae of Copenhagen with his wife and son, has been invited to cook at a special Monday evening event. “When Chad found out I was coming on vacation to California, he asked me to go and cook for an evening in his restaurant. It’s a sell-out, there is not even space to swing a cat, even the bar is full. He said come by and give me a hand on Monday!” Christian says to Daniel Patterson, who has one eye on him and the other on Louise who is crawling under the tables. His phone rings. It’s Peter Meehan, editor in chief of Lucky Peach maga- zine, “who is coming over to stay with us tomorrow night,” says Daniel. Only Dave Chang is missing from the morning get together. He is due to arrive on Tuesday before lunch, just in time for his evening talk show at the Municipal Theatre which coincides with the launch and party for number 4 of Lucky Peach, a monograph focusing on the so-called revolution of American Food.